How to spot a sick Mouse.

We all get sick from time to time and this includes our pets, even tiny little mice can get sick too although it can be sometimes harder to tell. 

Mice are mostly nocturnal creatures that are highly active (Females in particular) and will often disguise their ailments so predators don't see them as weak or easy to pick off. 

However, illness can go from being very minor allergies to full blown cancer. Mice are very much like humans so many of the problems we suffer mice can catch too so remember if you have the flu, salmonella poisoning, unexplained vomiting, norovirus or other contagious illnesses then wash your hand thoroughly, avoid sneezing etc around the cage or even better remove the cage from your room and have a family member or friend come round to care for you animals. Mice can in fact die from Influenza think of how tiny they are and their immune system fighting off a humans sickness, it can kill them. Also things like Salmonella and Norovirus are both fatal to humans (norovirus in particular) Mice do not have the same complex minds as us telling us that when we have diarrhea (mice wont vomit but will have severe diarrhea) to have a drink and keep ourselves hydrated, mice will think I'm ill if I eat I will poop again. They cant tell themselves to keep drinking and not allow themselves to become dehydrated because they just don't understand that and dehydration can kill a mouse and other rodents in less than 48 hours!! 

1. The common mouse cold. 

Very similar to humans and often clears up by itself. The symptoms include sneezing, watery eyes, shaking, tiredness much similar to use. Fresh food and water must be available at all times and keep the cage clean and as dry as possible. Keep the cage out of drafts, sunlight or high temperature but make sure it is at a constant comfortable temperature for your mouse so as not to over heat or become too cold. If symptoms persist more than a few days then go and have it checked by the vet but it usually clears up in under a week. If the mouse seems to be getting worse or no improvement in 3-4 days then I would go to the vet as it could be a more serious problem. 

2. Salmonella Poisoning. 

Mice are highly susceptible to food poisoning as we well know it. So make sure if you have washed a raw chicken in the sink to sterilise it round and fill up water bowls or bottles BEFORE you wash the chicken or use any raw meat on surfaces. Thoroughly rinse the bottle with hot water each time you use it and do not handle food or water (this includes the outside of the bottles as they may touch or lick them) also do not touch your mouse unless you have washed your hands with anti-bacterial soap and hot water for at least 1-2 minutes for your own safety as well as the mouse. Do not touch cage bars either we know mice touch and lick constantly so infection is easily spread and can be fatal quickly. Symptoms include diarrhea, shaking, dehydration, loss of appetite (diarrhea can actually be moist off colours poos in stead of the usual dark poops) If this infection does occur force your mouse to drink as much water as it can be careful when doing so and use a small eyedropper  and do not leave the mouse unaccompanied, it helps to reduce stress if a loving owner is there to support him/her through it none of us like being ill alone. 

3. Diarrhea. 

A common problem usually deriving from stress, too much fresh foods, Salmonella, standard upset stomach, final clearing of constipation and very common in older mice. It is nothing too serious just make sure your mouse is getting plenty to drink and as I mentioned above you can use an eyedropper to force it to drink. Dehydration causes death in hours so be careful. It is not usually vet worthy and can clear up easily on its own however if it persists for more than a day or two go and have it checked. Keep your mouse in conditions as clean and comfortable as possible be sure all food is plain and fresh food and water is available at all times, rest is needed.

4. Skin Allergies. 

This does not include mites as they are not an allergy. Skin allergies are also a common problem easily solved with extra care. Often mice will have an allergy to bedding such as a certain type of wood shavings (usually ones bought from pet shops as they are dusty and left sitting for long periods and sometimes not well treated if they are really cheap) it can also be from some dry meadow hays and dusty hays too as they can irritate eyes and cuts as well as skin. Yet it can be food allergies, vanilla (if used in the water or cage) things like hamster feeds, fresh foods and herb based foods are most likely to cause allergies. 

It is easy to spot a skin allergy as baldness of the skin, excessive scratching (other than grooming) rubbing against items in the cage, outbreaks of redness, swelling or a cluster of bumps, high stress levels, obvious discomfort, bleeding scabby skin, tiredness. These can happen even up to a week or so after using a new product. Remember, when using a new product do not use more than one if you are changing to a new type of feed don't go out and buy loads of different treats because it will be hard to tell which one has caused it if it takes several days to break out again the same with bedding use the older ones when changing so you are using one new thing at a time then you can locate the source of the problem and bring it under control, a whole new cage of beddings etc may make it harder to tell the same with cage cleaners but you must be careful to only use small animal cage cleaners such as Johnsons as they can be wiped off easily and be sure to rinse things thoroughly because even those on the skin can cause allergies even if used for months or years! Anything that causes even a small reaction to your pet discontinue use and dispose of as appropriate, just because your mouse is allergic doesn't mean a friends mouse or hamster can't have it to try out. 

Treatments include bathing the areas in a warm water and salt solution, do not bathe more than twice a day with a piece of tissue or a cotton bud as this can make the skin dry and cracked and leave a mouse to sit wet and cold to dry off (don't bathe the whole mouse just the area) this includes eyes and ears. If the mouse continues to scratch clean out the whole cage and make an appointment at the vets it could be mites. Be careful to monitor the mouse as cuts on the skin can become irritated or infected. Ointments are available but often too strong and not much use they can make it worse I recommend salt water solution it is safest for your pet. Try to dab dry the mouse as much as possible to prevent it from getting cold. Extreme allergies can cause death but in rare cases of course if you suspect your mouse to have a serious allergy that is not clearing after a few days (bare in mind it can take a few weeks for fur to grow back and cuts to disappear fully) if they are not better go to a vet. 

5. Mites. 

Mice are prone to getting mites and they usually only come from damp dirty conditions in beddings such as wood shavings left outside, or haven't been cleaned out regularly as they can breed bacteria and mites. Also wash hands etc before touching your mites if you have been outside in the grass or touching other animals because you can transfer them to your pet. The symptoms of mites include excessive scratching (other than grooming) fur loss, loss of appetite, raw or cut skin, scabby skin, mites may be visible in fur or ears (back and ears most common places) the mouse may appear a distressed, rubbing on toys etc, aggressive behaviour, behavioural changes, looking to be picked up constantly. Mites are often visible and ear mites are the most common. You can treat them with ointments and keeping the cage thoroughly cleaned each day make sure you finish your course of treatment and go to the vets to have it checked out.

6. Eye problems. 

Often mice will get the odd runny eye, a small amount of discharge or squinting which happens from time to time and comes and goes fairly quickly and never needs treatment. However swelling, crusting over, white lumps on eyes can be a sign of severe infection and the mouse turning blind. Be aware that there are other possible explanations for a runny eye other than the mouse having some serious disease and losing its sight it can be stress, anxiety, something caught in the eye or an allergy. Those being more common than diseases. The best way to keep these problems at bay is to keep the cage clean, keep your hands clean when handling, check your mouse daily and if symptoms keep occurring or get worse go to the vets. This is easily sorted with treatments and rest but sometimes blindness will happen so get it checked if it keeps happening or gets worse. Discharge can come in different colours from clear, white, yellow, green, orange and red. An eye watering could just be the mouse is tired. 

7. Tumors. 

Mice are prone to tumors especially in old age, feeder mice and poor health. Mostly they are benign fatty lumps most commonly appearing on the sides of the mouse and around its back end. You will be able to see and feel them and they do not go down when the mouse stretches. Get them checked if they are cancerous then there isn't much you can do, the chances of a mouse surviving the operation is less than 50% as over dose of drugs, strain, stress, infections and recovery are very hard on such a tiny mouse but the choice is up to you. Benign fatty lumps are usually not a problem and often a vet wont operate on them. Get them looked at just to be safe. 

8. Kinks in their tails. 

Mice whom have kinks, notches or lumpy tails should not be bred from as although the mouse mice seem or behave fine itself these can actually pass a gene on to the offspring or spinal problems it is not worth the risk to your mouse. If you have a mouse that has a kinky tail the possible explanations are rough handling in early age, injured in a fight, spine problems, genetic kinks or having it trapped in something like a door or a cage ladder or toy. They are harmless unless the mouse displays problems walking, with its back or balance. Nothing can really be done only don't breed from the mouse so you don't spread the problems usually they mean nothing but it is not worth the risk. 

9. Wet Tail. 

This is not very common in mice it is most common in hamsters, gerbils and guinea pigs. It is usually caused by urine leakage or problems using the toilet and can be treated. If left untreated for long periods of time it can be fatal. The symptoms include wetness around the genitals and lower back, discomfort, seeming confusion when using toilet, messy toilet regime, shaking, loss of appetite. However this can be mistaken as a one time thing or the mouse sitting in a bowl of water or against the water bottle causing the wetness. The easiest way to prevent this is to keep the cage clean and dry and check the water bottle is not faulty (if using a bowl switch to a bottle) leaking water bottles can be a problem. If you suspect wet tail go to the vets if it is not better in a few days it could just be the mouse sitting on a wet patch or water bowl. 

10. URI (Upper Respiratory Infection) 

This can be fatal quite quickly to mice. It is caused by dusty sawdust (not wood shavings) dirty, damp conditions, unhygienic routine, filthy bedding. The symptoms include laboured breathing, shaking, loss of appetite, watery eyes, fatigue, tiredness, sitting hunched over or lying down, and sometimes hair loss. Your mouse will appear very sick with a breathing problem and it can be fatal quickly. Get them to the vets asap and clean out the cage thoroughly check for any damp or problems and keep them in good conditions. I'd like to point out this is most common in dusty conditions, dirty conditions and tanks or bin cages. This must be checked and treated properly or you mouse is likely to die. 

11. Influenza. 

Similar to the common cold but more likely to become fatal much sooner. The symptoms are similar only the mouse will be in much worse condition. Runny eyes, sneezing, wheezing, shaking, fluctuating body temperature, tiredness, loss of appetite, dull coat. However if they symptoms persist, worsen or the mouse becomes limp and struggles to walk then the mouse must go to the vets or it could die. Prevention of this is simply do not touch your pet if you have flu as it is contracted from humans. If been out shopping, outside or on the bus especially where things are public wash your hands with anti-bacterial soap as this will stop the spread and also stop the spread of other problems such as winter vomiting (norovirus) spreading to your mouse. Have someone else care for them if you are too ill and keep things as clean as possible. Also clean out the cage regularly and make sure the mouse has plenty to eat and drink.